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Lights and lights and more lights
Here's some extra lights I put on and how they get hooked up for extra function
By Chet Walters
Click for Rattlebars Mfg.
Click for Chet's Wing Pages


NOTE THE SINCE THIS PAGE WILL BE ADDED TO
MANY TIMES, LOOK IN TEXT FOR THE PARTS NEEDED
MATERIALS
Listed below
many small 4" zip ties
electrical tape
heat shrink
some relays or diodes
black 32g stranded wire
TOOLS
several listed below
#2 phillips
power screwdriver
awl
wire cutter
needle nose pliers
solder gun
Click the topic you want to see below:
Click any picture to see enlargement
Click resuting picture to see next
Use backspace key for previous
For steps not described fully - see your service manual.

To see how to flash the brake lights and use the trunk lights as turn signals, see my INTEGRATOR page.


EZ SPLICE-IN PIGGY BACK METHOD
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Since this method will be used throughout and there will be more additions to this page as time goes on, the description of the method used to connect the wires is right here up front! I don't like Scotch locks for wire splice in. Even LeverLocks , which are very large (often too large for tight spaces), require you cut a wire or two. BOTH are bulky, often loosen over time and corrode. Soldering is best, but that is sometimes very difficult if not impossible. I often use the "tuck and roll" method (shown at right) which works good on smaller connectors with light gauge wires, but that's sometimes not practical with these tight mini connectors. Using, in the order of ease of use and durability: a safety pin leg (good for waterproof connectors), a leg from a diode/resistor, 1 inch length of 20-22 gauge bell wire (solid copper not strands) or a ceiling tile staple, one can make a "probe" that will slip into a connector from behind on the plug as shown. Grab a proper size gauge diode or safety pin and cut off a leg leaving enough to re-use the diode. Solder your lead onto one leg end leaving about 1/2" or more of a leg free. Put on some heat shrink and lube it good with bulb grease and insert tightly into the back of the plug so that it makes good contact with the connector of the needed wire. After "smoke" testing, zip tie or tape it to the existing wire and zip tie to the harness too for good strain relief. (if doing a waterproof connector, you can add a dollop of hot glue or bulb grease before tying off). This way, if you ever need to disconnect that which you have connected, simply cut the zip ties and "unplug" your piggy back EZ Splice. Works great and it's easy. One helpful thing here is to use a "Helping Hand" soldering stand available at Radio Shack to help make a neat solder of the wire to the leg/pin. I've been using this method for 20 years in inclement weather of all sorts including snow, salt and mud (on my quads) and have never lost a connection. To the purist. A connector is a device which slides one metal "blade" over another metal "blade" to make a connection. We are merely doing exactly the same thing. There are commercial versions of this here: *click me*




Click here for scrollable printable pic.
These are nice lights from Kuryakyn and add to the "sidemarker" lighting that Honda forgot on the GL1800 (more below). There are a coupla ways to hook them up, but I used a method that also blinks them in conjunction with your turn signals and hazard flashers as well. I ran two leads zip tied down the brake lines using four conductor black jacketed phone wire for a total of four wires on each side. Two wires are used for these lights each side and two leads are left over each side if I ever add decorative lights. We will use the YELLOW and GREEN leads of the phone wire for this application. Keep the GREEN wires for GROUND and use the YELLOW wires for hot on each side. Connect as instructed since you'll need to unplug them when removing the cover.

To have these lights blink in conjunction with your turn signals use diodes or mini relays.

Click the pictures for larger printable and readable images
Whatever you used to run up the forks is up to you so remember which wires you ran to make the proper connections. We need a keyed +12v wire and since I had my stuff exposed, I used the BROWN/BLACK lead to the instrument lights as shown above. You can use the BROWN/WHITE wire that's in your C16 at he RIGHT faring pocket. Pick one and hook your dual HOT wire there each side. For ground, we are going to "fool" the system and use the HOT wires from the turn signals as the GROUND wires for the caliper lights. The effect of this is to make the caliper lights blink inversely with the turn signals on the same side and they also blink with your hazard lights too and even blink if you use anytime fourways. Take your RIGHT lead for the GROUND on the light and connect it to the LT BLUE wire of the bike's RIGHT turn signal circuit. I tied in to the signal indicator, but you can access this wire behind the RIGHT mirror by pulling back the boot and fishing out the plug to your turn signals. Use the LT BLUE for the RIGHT side. Repeat for the LEFT connecting GROUND to the ORANGE wire, either at the indicator or in the LEFT mirror.

For use of a relay, wire your lights as shows on the right using BLUE wires on the right side and ORANGE wires on the left.

 



SIDEMARKERS: Honda FORGOT sidemarkers!
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Honda put those beautiful wrap around tail lights on the saddlebags and they FORGET to light them up on the sides! We fix it right here and now! There is actually an indentation for a bulb in there and mirrored finish on the backside of these empty fixtures. I had some BLAZER red lens clearance lights (#C827R for $1.99 at Auto Zone) laying around. I had used these before on my Valk and knew that the insides would be ideal to light these up.

Lewis at Electrical Connections sells a nice little kit for this here: >CLICK< It's a bit pricey and you will need to get 194 white bulbs to replace the red ones that come with that kit.

Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Just tear apart the BLAZER and rip out the light socket (twist with pliers to break the metal). Try to get ones with BLACK sockets, but you can paint them black if you need to like I had to (actually, you should paint all the non-black parts black). Shown is a white one. Solder a good 8" long lead wire (shown here as a scrap piece of brown wire I had) onto the brass "ground" of the light socket making sure that it exits at a good right angle as shown. Make sure the original "hot" lead of the light is at least eight inches long. Prepare these leads for the piggy back splice-in using legs described above.

During the following steps, remember you are drilling into the SIDE of the fixtures where there WAS NO LAMP! Don't drill into the rear part where there's already a light!

Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Now you have to cut out the fixtures. Easiest is to drill 1/4" to start with, then work at it with a Dremel and a cutter. Do this slow because the red plastic likes to crack easy. Keep your shop vac handy and also a compressor to blow air or use a can of duster air. Very often during your work, vacuum out and blow out the plastic fragments created. Make a square hole 2" up from the outer edge of the little "box" at the end of the light fixture and 1/4" from the inside of the red plastic (see pic). The hole is 5/8" long and 3/8" wide. Once done, make sure all of the stray plastic is out of there and then insert the light. Silicone in place making sure the light does not touch the plastic inside front or back. Let it set overnight. Tape it off then connnect your leads as shown above. Screw the light back in. V̉ILA! To change the bulb later on if it burns, cut the silicone with a box cutter and replace and re-glue.
NOTE: this light will not be centered, but it will be where the indent is inside the fixture. Be careful! These fisxtures are not cheap!


BLACKOUTS: The turn signals on the mirrors are blacked out.
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
Used Envision Black HLC0025 from Planet Superbike.  
Click that link then choose:
  • Online Catalog
  • Headlight covers
  • Honda
  • Envision Black HLC0025


Electrical Connections Super White Driving lights for GL1800.
Click pic for a bigger version.

Great product. Excellent lights (until you have to change a bulb). Excellent instructions and a lighted EOM look-alike switch which broke after about a year (I replaced it >CLICK<). One thing, the wiring could have been in a black jacket, but it's white (nothing a little flat black spray paint can't cure). Self adjusting. Though, to change a bulb you have to remove the lower cowl and destroy the silicone seal to get the bulb out. You must repair the seal after installing the lights and let it cure overnight. Only disappointing thing I ever got from Lewis at EC



The lights must be incandescent white lights.

Signal Dynamics Headlight Modulater for GL1800.
Well, I had been opposed to headlight modulators and still am. Reason being they make you "pose" as an emergency vehicle. I feel I don't have any more rights to the road than the next guy, but after my head on crash (see pics here) I had second thoughts. I ran them full on both headlights but found as I suspected -- people in cars behaving oddly by pulling over as if I was an emergency vehicle. I decided to modulate one side only which worked for awhile until I began to realize that folks thought I was signaling a turn. That sucked! I still want attention because the modulator does get you seen, but the side effects were too much. I worked out a way to modulate my fog/cowl lamps instead of the low beams. I get attention, but the lights are low down and don't seem to make drivers think they need to pull over and let me pass (I hated that). Works great.  This is how I wired them...

My lo beams are on solid all the time. The fogs modulate only when they are on (duh). The hi beam function of the modulator still works as it was - modulates both hi beams and puts the fogs steady. So if I'm feeling just a little mischievous some days, I just flip on the hi beams. Try it! My fogs (see above paragraph) work with a relay so I drew that circuit. YMMV I did wire it using both of the lo outs because I don't remember if it would do harm to the module running 2 55watt bulbs off one side only. I doubt it, but my module is buried so far under the top shelter I didn't want to look to see. The two outs may be daisy chained and work just fine using one, but you find out. I want my warranty to be intact.
...... Coupla notes. If you turn off your fogs while the hi beam is on modulate, it will stop proper modulation. Simply switch back to lo. If you had a 10A fuse for your fogs, put in a 15 but make sure your wiring is adequate. The stock fuse for lo beams on this bike is 15A and I presume that SD configured the modulator with that fact in mind. If you have a 10A fuse, switching to hi modulation will fry the 10A fuse. You should have no problems because 18 gauge wire is good for a 10 foot run at 15 amps as per this table for wire size needs. >click me<

About that light sensor. For me, it is not sensitive enough. It shuts the lights off way too early. On a cloudy day here in cloud country, they would be off  in midday! Booo! I considered a switch but figured if it was on at night, I'd notice and turn it off using the flick/HI/LO method. What I did was simply put a small pigtail inline with the sensor using a two prong plug in the pigtail. Because the sensor is merely on when it's light and off when it's night, I just twisted the two leads in the jumper together. If for some odd reason I want to go back, unplug the jumper and give command to the sensor again. In the long days this long shadow season, I may spring for a real switch!

If you think this will cause a problem, the Federal law states: "A headlamp on a motorcycle may be wired to modulate either the upper beam or the lower beam from its maximum intensity to a lesser intensity.... "  Find the MC light modulation Federal regulation here: click me You may be a test case, but I have not been stopped for any of the three ways I ran it. Note too that you cannot use these on yellow fogs and don't try to modulate LED fogs lights as they would just BLINK which is not legal. The lights must be incandescent white lights which can be faded in and out.

Here's a short video of how it works and you will note there is bizarre behavior when the fogs are off and the hi attempts to modulate.


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HORNY LIGHTS

I'm still no fan of blinking the headlight with the horn or any other means. Blinking headlights is the universal signal for "go ahead the turn in front of me!" But after considerable mileage with this circuit which is more noticeable than using the front turn signals, I'm a believer in blinking your AUX Lamps with the horn. They can be fog lamps, light bars or any up front aux lamps that you already work with a relay (NOT YOUR HEADLIGHTS!).

This little circuit knows if your aux lights are on and will blink them off when the horn beeps. This little circuit knows if your aux lights are off and will blink them on when the horn beeps.

About $5 total..... you can use a standard 5 pin Bosch style relay (water proof recommended) or what I used, a Radio Shack micro 12v relay for a computer (275-241 which is only about half an inch square). Diodes can be little 1 amp jobs (RS 276-1102) since you're only pushing relay triggers.

[Click for the 275-241 relay.] -- [click for the diodes]





......(with GatorWing's inspiration)

This is how I have wired my LED flood cornering lights in the final version. For other ways to do it, check the alternate wiring methods shown below this section.  If you have cowl lights all of the extra wiring & relays can hide in the lower cowl needing only a two pin connector (shown below) to get its necessary connections from the bike .


If you simply want to use these as cornering lights and maybe as horny lights and/or full time lights, then
FIG 1 to the right is your huckleberry. This installation will work on the GL1800 regardless of the bulbs used in the signals. It uses two relays (RS 275-241 12v 1a or equivalent), one on each side for that side's light. Each side gets its +12v SOURCE (30/51) from the cowl light's +12v. Relay GROUND (85) comes from the cowl light's ground and the TRIGGER (86) is supplied by that side's Position light +12v. The relay is not sending voltage out as long as the position light is hot (whenever the key is in the on setting - RUN not ACC) . The position light goes dark when that side's signal is activated courtesy Honda. This causes our relay to lose its +12v trigger and its connection falls from the unused 87 terminal to the default 87a passing power from 30/51 illuminating that cornering light. When the signal is canceled, the position light gets its +12v power again firing the relay so 87a drops power to the cornering lights. Remember, terminal 87 is not used and should be insulated.

The left side gets switched by the ORANGE/WHITE left position light HOT wire. The right side gets switched by the LT BLUE/WHITE right position light HOT wire. Our light will be illuminated only while the position light is off hence only while the signal is active on that side.

The +12v from other external sources for the cornering LED light is supplied directly as shown (remember these other sources can be direct only if you use LED cornering lights - else use a relay). A diode is inserted into the cowl light's +12v supply (PURPLE) to prevent the cowl lamp from illuminating when these other sources are fired should the bike be keyed off at the time.

NOTE: If you use incandescent 35 watts cornering lights you must use automotive bosch style relays as shown below.



FIG 1

 


I have added a strobe effect to the LED "horny lights" feature of this circuit.
It entails using an alternating strobe module obtained off eBay for a couple bucks which activates 2 DPDT relays (RS 275-241 12v 1a or equivalent) to protect the weak strobe controller. Wired as in
FIG 2, the strobe effect lasts only while the horn is beeping. Using a strobe means you need to run one horn wire to the strobe module and run the strobe out wires to both sides lights (easily hidden behind the lower cowl).

Not satisfied with the effect of just the two lower lights as strobes, I then added a pair of bright LED's from SuperBright to the mix which are installed in the lower vent intakes of the fairing. These are flashed with a remote controlled strobe module with many modes using a pair of relays as shown in FIG 3. These strobes are seriously effective if you add the timed delay relay described below. Using the relays allows you to add just about as many LED lights to the circuit as the relays will handle (5a for the linked ones) and the strobe LED lights can have their own ground source as well.

Shows functions of cornering lights, full on and turn on one side and prior single strobe controller. Shows current horn delayed and timed alternating strobes with cornering function same. Also has a full time & fun feature.

For the X effect, conjoin the LEFT UPPER with the RIGHT LOWER and the RIGHT UPPER with the LEFT LOWER.
 


FIG 2

FIG 3

I have added a time delay to the strobe!! The lights continue to strobe for 5 seconds after the horn is beeped (see above right video and FIG 4). I used a delay module obtained from AMAZON and added a relay to pulse the switch of the delay module - (RS 275-241 12v 1a or equivalent). It nestles conveniently inverted & hot glued in the space of the module as shown. Instead of the HORN LT GREEN directly feeding the strobe/light we use a HORN to pulse the delay relay which feeds the light's strobe module with the +12v delay out (shown in LT BLUE) for some seconds after the last beep. With a second set of lights, the effect can be quite striking as in the right video above.

Another programmable relay is shown at left (Git one on eBay) which I plan to use as a looping timer for bike night. It will display the strobes in action for a few minutes then take a break for some time then re-fire again.... saves battery. Click here for instructions on how to program the pictured delay relays.


  FIG 4

 


ALTERNATE WIRING FOR INCANDESCENT CORNERING LIGHTS

There are several ways to do this for both LED flood lights or 35w incandescent. If using 35w incandescent, don't load the line with anything else, use the first drawing and don't use the horny lights feature unless you insert another relay.


All LED installations use two relays (RS 275-241 12v1a or equivalent) one on each side for that side's light. If you use incandescent 35 or 55 watts you must use automotive bosch style relays.  Each side gets its +12v SOURCE (30/51) from the battery. Relay GROUND (85) comes from the system ground and the TRIGGER (86) is supplied by that side's Position light +12v. The relay is not sending voltage out as long as the position light is hot (whenever the key is in the on setting - RUN not ACC) . The position light goes dark when that side's signal is activated. This causes our relay to lose its +12v trigger and its connection falls from the unused 87 terminal to the default 87a passing power from 30/51 illuminating that cornering light. When the signal is canceled, the position light gets its +12v power again firing the relay so 87a drops power to the lights. Remember, terminal 87 is not used and should be insulated.

The left side gets switched by the ORANGE/WHITE left position light HOT wire. The right side gets switched by the LT BLUE/WHITE right position light HOT wire. Our light will be illuminated only while the position light is off hence only while the signal is active on that side.

The horny lights option is easy to hook up to each side's horn as well. Just attach a lead from the horn green wire through a diode to the +12v wire directly at the light's +12v wire. But only use directly if you employ low current draw LED cornering lights such as those documented here. For high current non-LED lights, use an extra relay. Click on drawing for a better look at how to do it. 

 I chose to use the +12v lead from my lower cowl lights because I really only need my cornering light at night and I always have my cowl lights on at night. Another reason? My entire circuit - relay and wiring - resides in the cowl because I am mounting these 7 ounce lights directly to the cowl. I only need one wire to the cowl from the bike which is the position light wire for switching. One wire to disconnect when removing the cowl (two if using the horny lights and/or full time switch option). I can mount these lights directly to the cowl because their duty cycle is short so the heat from them will be insignificant. I will have a two conductor plug because I am also going to switch them on with my horny lights plus have a separate switch in case I want to light them up because of a road accident situation or need extra light. Each lamp draws less than 1 amp at 12v. Depending on your set up, the diode on the position +12v is necessary to prevent leakage of +12v to the relay when using the horny lights option or an optional switch as shown.

I
From Super Brite LEDs
No temperature data for this light yet.
From eBay
Measured 108° at the lamp body and  77° at the mounting
 bolt after 1 hour powered on in ambient 72°  non-moving air.

[Click for 5a 275-249 relay] [click for 3a diode] [Click for 275-241 1a relay]

 
CLICK ON PIC FOR LARGER
 





click here for Ohm's Law

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INTERIOR

For this project you will need waterproof bright LED strips (Amazon or eBay) and about 30 feet of the thinnest black stranded wire you can find (about 22 gauge) in black.

I started out with this project in '02 when LED technology was in its infancy. As you can see by the six LED light I once used with this system, I wasn't really getting lots of light. Now that LED tech has come a long way, I decided to add LOTS OF light to my trunk area. The background of the illustration here is my messy trunk lit in a completely dark garage at night with no camera flash used.

These strips (Amazon or on eBay) for $4+ each come with 3M adhesive on the back and they're flexible enough to conform to the inner trunk lid. They are switched from the vanity always hot circuit in the trunk (2 pin RED connector*) through a Honeywell mercury switch from an old thermostat with their power wires run through a small hole in the inner lid. The mercury switch bulb is completely sealed in silicone and stuck onto the trunk control unit at just the right angle for these lights to switch off when the trunk is about 2/3rds of the way closed. Be sure to use bullet connectors between the light and the switch so you can R&R the inner trunk lid.

These strips give off plenty of light as you can see. Some of the most forward part of the trunk is in shade, but one needs merely to tip the lid back a little to get that area lit up too. These lights take up no room at all and do not in any way detract from storage. Mounted where they are, you are shielded from glare by the trunk tail if you are at least 5' 9" tall.



* If you want your light to be on only with the key on (in case you forget and leave your trunk open all night), you can use the LIGHT GREEN/BLACK wire on the big plug for your +. You still should switch it though because you won't want them on all the time when the key is on while you ride.



BAG LIGHTS
For the bags I did not want to mount the lights inside the bags at all. Why? Well, if the bags are full, you're not gonna see anything but the top of your stuff if you can even see that! I wanted lights on the door. But, how to switch the lights and where to mount the lights and how to wire the lights in the lid?

First gain access to the bag switches for use
When your bag is closed, the switch in the latch is open so your display is not complaining about your flapping bag. It does this by breaking from ground on the bike. If the ECM sees no ground from these switches it won't complain. Hmmmm. I'm installing LED lights so there's no chance of ground feedback because they are diodes so I can use the bag switches for ground to switch the lights off and on. Sweet!

Remove bag contents and remove the eight screws holding the inner top cover which hides the switches and latch mechanism. Pull slightly to the front to unhook the cover's tab (important) and it comes off exposing your work area. Notice the hook/tab on the cover and see this pic of how it goes. You will need to put it back exactly as shown. When you install the cover, hook the tab then put the screws on the cover's bottom in first. This will serve to line up the screws that are in the front.

For access to the switched ground I merely pulled apart the latch plug with the WHITE/RED wires and inserted a suitable stripped 22 gauge wire in to the female and re-plugged the plug. Bingo! Ground. Switched! Open the door, the lights shine. Close the door and they go dark. And as a bonus, you will know they're dark because your display will let you know. If it shows your door open, the light is lit keeping the bugs happy inside your bag. Better close the door to turn off the light. Click any pic for a larger view.

How To wire the +12v feed
Now I needed to get a hot wire that's always +12v into the bag, but how? The tail lights are in the bags and under the cover we removed there's a grommet to be found with five holes in it through which the wires that supply those tail lights run. I just needed to figure out how to fish a very thin +12v wire through that grommet. So, I took off the seat, lubed some small forceps and pushed the tip of the forceps from the inside through one of the existing holes in the grommet. Working the forceps from inside the bag, I grabbed my +12v wire on the seat side then pulled it into the bag. I pulled about 3 feet of wire through so I would have enough to reach my light and some extra just to be sure. Click any pic for a larger view. Since these wires are tiny and the amperage draw next to nothing, make sure you fuse the +12v with a 2.5 AMP fuse.

where to mount the lights
I chose to use the same LED lights I used in my trunk (Amazon or on eBay). First I trimmed the LEDs so the strip would fit between the latches. Then, with the supplied 3M, I pasted the strip onto the inside of the lid at the top in the corner so when the door was open they would point toward the interior of the bag to illuminate the contents without much glare. But getting both hot and ground to the lights presented a bit of a problem. Hmmm... there is a "leash" which supports the door when it's open. LEDs do not require heavy wire. I used two black 22 gauge wires and wrapped them around that cable tether tightly and then ran the wires to the lights using dabs of hot glue to keep them in place. I painted the dabs to match my bike. If I had it to do over again, which I did because of a crash. I drilled two small holes in my inner bag lid, one at the light and one at the end of the leash and ran the wires between the lids. It is much neater! See the pic below. Click any pic for a larger view. Don't forget!  Fuse the +12v with a 2.5 AMP fuse.


If you want to prevent the trunk from automatically re-locking.....

Click for a better view of the cover hook placement


How to delay your LO beams from igniting until your bike is running
This is mainly for those using HID lights which don't like the pulse of the start button
The first drawing shows how to delay the ingite using the OIL light ground wire, an extra relay and the hot wire of the LO relay. Will not work on AIR BAG or 2012+ models.
How to delay your LO beams from igniting until your bike is ready (skip the "off" when the start button is pressed)

Second in line shows the method using an extra relay of how to keep your LO beams dark until you put up your side stand. If you install a bypass switch to use for emergencies or state inspections, the DIODEs are necessary to prevent your bike from starting in gear with the stand down.

 
 


 

Third in line shows the side stand ground used as the ground for the EOM LO relay.

Simply cut the green ground wire from your LO BEAM relay and send it to the side stand switch GREEN/WHITE ground wire. If you need to pass state inspections, or wish to bypass the killer, add a switch to ground and insert diodes to prevent mishaps when starting in gear.

 

 



Because the flashing LEDs worked so poorly in the trunk fixtures (see video below) I moved them to the lower fixtures where they are much brighter because the bulb comes straight out from the rear and projects directly aft.



This video shows how poorly the flashing LED bulbs worked in the upper fixtures. It's because the bulbs come up from the bottom and not straight out from the rear. They are now in the lower fixtures (see video above).

Since I got my '06 I went a different way......
Click here for scrollable printable pic.
On my '02 I once ran an integrator but my '06 is wired differently so that would not prove ideal. The '06 has inside trunk lights that do not light up with the brake or anything! Just a running light. EC sells a harness that will make them turn signals (EC jumper for signals in trunk). However, that item is a bit pricey and I can wire stuff so I just ran a wire from the right (BLUE) and left (ORANGE) signal wire on each side and made a pigtail that would electrify that side's unused bright filament in the inside 7443 lights. Now when I turn on my signals, that light on that side blinks with the signal.

For the brake lights I did try getting EC's EC superflash module to flash the trunk lights even though I didn't want to spend that much. I did find the same thing on Amazon for less. But, those modules require that you use LED bulbs which are not cheap $$$. While I was looking for the LED bulbs to go with the modules I ran across these Super Bright LED 7443 brake flashing bulbs on eBay with a rapid brake flash built right in! They are bright as the OEM incandescent plus there is no need for wiring changes. Just swap out the bulbs for almost the same price as regular LED bulbs that you must buy for the modules.  That's plug and play at its best! These bulbs repeat the flash at 60 second intervals if the brake light is still on. Make sure to put them in the bag lights and not the trunk as shown above. Buy just two.

The lower LED that replaces the reflector is a 3 watt 3 LED clone of a Whelen mini which I got from Super Bright. The video does not adequately show this, but it is the brightest light and outshines all the lights put together. It's an exact match for the reflector.

The double lights on each side of the Knight Riders scanner are rectangular accent LED modules sticky taped to the bottom of the trunk.



 

KNIGHT RIDERZ BRAKE/RUN LIGHT
Click pics for larger view.

It is my habit to watch my rear view mirrors when stopped waiting for traffic to clear making a turn especially left.  Last week, I was doing as usual and noticed a mini-van coming up behind way too fast. The opposing traffic negated my turning so I released the clutch and pinned it glancing back to see the mini-van smoking its tires to stop. After waving with only one finger, I just forgot the turn and went home another way.  But, I was determined to add some lighting back there. Because of my custom paint I can't put a spoiler & light and need one that would fit my "stealth" non-ostentatious theme.  I found a 4.5 inch* very bright Knight Riderz LED run/brake combo at Custom Dynamics. I mounted it under the trunk on the flat area where the levers are which is both high and visible. If you have a post 2012, you need to add a sheet of aluminum sticky taped to the trunk area so the Knight Riderz will hang down as it is on the pre-2012 deck below the levers. The light bar is unobtrusive, does not in any way hamper using the levers and the required wires to tap into are conveniently in the boot behind the back fender panel.  Very easy installation, took me about 40 minutes start to finish. I also got a dark skinned Knight Riderz module and mounted it behind the backrest with some stainless steel  (see pic). All the necessary wires can be accessed in the c14 connector in the boot in the back. I don't have this one scanning, it just flashes with the brake. *PS: I am now running the longer 21 LED version in the down low position as shown in the video.

EXTRA SIGNALS!
To this "light bar" I have added two 11mm LED "Bolts" for the signals. I used a scrap of plastic cut from an old lid and made two brackets. With a step drill I made 7/16" holes, inserted the lights and trimmed around the perimeter with scissors. The keyhole shaped  tabs get a length of 3M double stick and they are applied to the back of the Knight Riderz bar. The wires are run to each side's turn signal so each blinks with the signal on each side. They are rather bright for such a small LED.

They are called LED Bolts and can be found @ Oznium dot com. The link came from Steve K on the GL1800 riders message board. Once installed I will update the video.

I first purchased what I thought was three watt LEDs, but when I set the color to black, it flipped to one watt! I wasn't pleased about that but I did like the idea so I ordered three watt stainless (no lens). Are they brighter. Yes. In daylight it makes the difference between these light being a novelty into something that's functional. I wish there was a 5 watt version. The pics and the lower video show the difference tween three on the left and one on the right.. Though the bright sunlight does what it does to LEDs (make them hard to photograph)you can see a difference... Yes, I did replace my '06 euro style trunk lights with the large solid ones from a pre- '06 bike. Much brighter with the LED bulbs and it makes the inner signal usage more than a novelty.

 



What we do here is stick an LED strip in the garnish on a bracket custom made so it shows through the scoop. Powered using diodes (see drawing) or isolated sources (see drawing) with both the ignition key and with a separate switch, we can alert oncoming traffic or show a display when parked at Bike Night. The 12" light strip cost about $8.00 on eBay and it's a perfect fit when centered.



click for larger


 

Some camera artifacts show what appears to be flaws in the lights but these are simply perfect!

HIDDEN MIRROR ARROW SIGNALS
Click here for scrollable printable pic.

PARTS: resistors 100ohm (2) & 47ohm (4) - flat head LEDs from SuperBright (14) - wire
Ok, so you want mirror arrows. You can spend $200 for Muth or you can get a set on eBay for $that much or more$. Hearing rumors that others have done this, I found it was easy and cost only some time and $10. The results are remarkable. Your mirror shows nothing until you turn on your blinker and voila! Signals! Parts include some flat head LEDs from SuperBright, solder, a few resistors and some bullet connectors. To the left you can see the simple circuit for the seven LEDs. One at the point all by itself with a 100ohm resistor and two sets of three in series with 47ohm resistors. Forget the math. Yes, I know that's not what the "book value" for resistors is supposed to be, but since these will see only intermittent power cycles as blinkers, we can push the LEDs to make them bright as can be. I wired each of the 3 LED legs with the 47  and the single point with the 100 and the brightness matches for all seven. Look at the picture to the left and see that negative is BLUE while the positive is RED on the legs. Each leg is in series shown as, resistor + LED - to + LED - to + led - to common and the single LED is YELLOW.  Very simple to solder in place and buttoned up with some hot glue to hold it all together & insulate. You can fill in the back with some duct tape, but I kinda like the fact that the mirror glows from behind when the arrow illuminates.

The LEDs shine right through the mirror hence they are invisible until illuminated. Do not scratch the glass back! It is not necessary and it will show. It's kinda like a one way mirror. Quite striking and so easy to do. One reason I peel the plastic off for drilling is because it is way too likely you will mar the mirror glass if you try to drill while the glass is in place. Feeling lucky?

So, the problem is how to drill the holes.... I put the entire mirror in the oven at 300° for about six or seven minutes. That loosens up the adhesive and softens the plastic so you can peel the back off the glass. Why not just use a forstner bit to drill with the glass on? Three reasons: 1. go too far and you screw up our mirror; 2. Detritus from your drilling will get in the way of the LED; 3. the OEM adhesive is probably going to spoil one or more of your lights because it's not consistently located. If you get lucky, it won't interfere with one or more of your holes but you gotta be lucky. Once the parts are separated, drill your holes a bit large (6mm instead of 5mm) then set the backs on the glass to see if you have a problem with the OEM adhesive in the way. If so, some Ronsonol lighter fluid will let you clean off that errant goo. Clean all the goo, the drill detritus and bits on your holes then heat again and put it back together. (PS wear gloves else OUCH!) Pop them in the fridge to cool off and they will come out tight and looking like new. Now insert the LEDs into the holes so the business end of these flat boys are right against the mirror glass (they look stupendous because they have concentric circles like a target in them which the camera cannot pick up). Hot glue in place, solder the legs as shown then make your wires. BTW: the LONG legs of the LEDs are POSITIVE and the short NEGATIVE. Polarity is important on LEDs. The wires are easy. I used the tuck and roll method on the signal plugs and then put bullet connectors inside the mirror so one can take out the mirror easily. The colors on the bike are solid BLUE for the RIGHT+ signal and solid ORANGE for the LEFT+. Green is NEGATIVE on both.


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The information on these pages is accurate to the best of the author's knowledge. The author can assume no responsibility for the use or misuse of this information by the reader. The reader is expected to secure any other information needed from Service Manuals or other sources. It is up to the reader to determine his/her ability to make any modifications noted. If the reader does not feel qualified he/she should enlist professional help.

On my 06


All feeds from the system are diode protected.